With the 'big freeze' still going on most of us were heading up to the 1st meet of 2010 at Onich with desires to climb rarely in condition icefalls and thankfully we were not to be disappointed. Rab and Ally were up and away 1st and heading for the south side of the Aonach Eagach to climb the 600 metre route Blue Riband (V,5). Numerous steep ice pitches with some easier ground inbetween led to a somewhat nippy mixed pitch that Ally reckoned was VI, 6. Good effort on that one lads!

Myself and Daniel meanwhile visited the series of waterfalls at Inchree which I hoped had frozen up too. It was a gamble but it paid off and we had great fun climbing the whole lot at a fairly easy grade. We then went round to Glen Nevis to climb Steall falls which we knew were in condition and which were for me the main objective of the weekend. I've wanted to climb them since 1st clasping eyes on them at my 1st club meet at the Steall hut many moons ago. Although nowhere hard (II/III), the falls gave over 500 feet of enjoyable climbing and was perfect for Daniel to get to grips with the ins and outs of ice climbing. He'll be back for more it's safe to say!

Andy set out intending to climb the Ballachullish horsheshoe but only got as far as the 1st munro, Sgorr Dhearg, via the impressively narrow and scrambly north-east ridge where he met a few folk, some of who after much dithering decided to back off and head back down. Bimblies eh? This delayed him a fair bit so with time limited and the rest of the horseshoe still to do he cut the trip short and headed down the north ridge and through 'hell woods' to arrive back at the road. Has anyone ever found it easy going through those woods by the way? I doubt it. Kevin and Sheila had no definite plans but ended up going for a walk up to Loch Eilde Mor to the south of the Mamores which was completely frozen over, cold indeed! A fine day weather wise but no blue skies as was promised, ho hum.

Saturday night was an unusually quiet affair that we'll put down to folk being knackered. The fact that I couldn't drink because I was on antibiotics for a tooth infection I'm sure had no influence........ A bit of dithering ensued on Sunday morning but eventually plans were hatched. Kevin and Sheila took a walk up to Steall to see the frozen falls for themselves which had about half a dozen teams of climbers on them! Daniel had to go home early (family sledging duties!) but myself, Andy, Rab and Ally headed east to Creag Dubh near Newtonmore where we knew the route Oui Oui was 'in'. Thankfully we managed to talk Ally out of leading the direct finish which is an amazing free-standing ice pillar. It was dripping wet and bits were falling off it and it was also hollow for at least half it's height! Apparently it was led for the 1st time the following morning but with much excavating for good pick placements and protection!

To my surprise while flicking through The Scottish Sun newspaper on Monday morning, I will add here that I did not buy it! (Yeah right - Ed) I seen a pic of myself and Ally leading Oui Oui which made my day somewhat. Similar pictures of us appeared in The Daily Record, The Express and also The Scotsman which is the best of the lot in my opinion. Fame at last then. It was good while it lasted anyway!

Colin

Click here for the pictures