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updated 18 Dec 2018

Club Members in the News


Some proper mountaineering to report. Deeds of daring do were done last winter, and have now been duly recognised. There are 2 new winter routes in the Cairngorms by club members in the latest SMC Journal. I hope this doesn't infringe anyone's copyright, but Rab was so chuffed, we have to let everyone know ! (See below for legible versions of the text)


From Page 357

GLEN FESHIE, Creag an t-Sluic (NN 834 907):

A broken crag lying above the track contouring round to Lochan an t-Sluic but with a impressive large dark recess with a very steep back and right wall. A pinnacle marks the left side of the recess (Alt. 600m, North-West facing). Approach via Glen Feshie and the track leading from Carnachuin.

Fiferís Fall 70m IV,4 **. R.McMurray, C.McGregor. 6th March 2005. The large, obvious icefall at the left hand side of the recess.
1. 25m. Climb the ice-fall trending left to belay in the side wall.
2. 45m. Step back right and climb the steep icefall direct until it eventually terminates in the heather above. Belay well back in rocks on the right. Ice screw protection throughout.

Ramblerís Ruin 115m III. C.McGregor, A.Carver, M.Dean. 5th March 2005. 

Start at a long obvious gully at the right-hand side of the cliff at the lowest rocks. 

1. 45m. Climb easily up the gully to a short steepening. Climb this to a large sloping ledge below the steep icefall.
2 and 3. 70m. Climb steeply up the middle of the fall, continuing on slightly easier ground to the final bulge. Surmount this and follow the ice, now much easier, to its finish. The technical grade can be upped slightly depending on the line taken.


From Page 391

There were many fine additions throughout the season, but in my view, the most interesting have a strong exploration focts. John Lyall discovered a 100m. crag directly beneath the summit of Cam Dearg in the Monadhliath. The cliff has five pillars separated by faults and John climbed the major lines with the best being Soul Survivor (IV,4), the turfy fault between the first and second pillars from the left, and Arctic Monkey (V,5), a line up the fourth pillar. Across in the Cairngorms R. McMurray and C. McGregor had a good find with the excellent Fifer's Fall (IV,4), a steep 70m. icefall on the previously unclimbed Creag an't Sluic in Glen Feshie. McGregor also climbed the ice line of Ramblerís Ruin (lII) at the right end of the crag. Farther west, Donald King, Andy Turner, Mike Pescod and Mike Brownlow developed the easterly corrie of Mullach nan Corean in the Mamores by adding a series of 80m. routes with pride of place going to the excellent Kindergarten Corner (VII,8).